Foodie Finds, Quirky Adventures, & Travel Off the Beaten Path
There’s chance encounters so visually jaw dropping, food so beyond mouthwatering, and hikes so joy inducing it’s crimeful not to share these lucky fortunes. Sharing some new travel adventures, delicious eats, and fun jaunts and can’t wait to hear all about your discoveries in the comments too.
If you could eat your way through a place this would be the one. Basque Country is located in North Eastern Spain, and brimming with sleepy winery towns, rolling hills, and snow capped mountains greeting gorgeous lively sandy beaches, best of all worlds for surfers, wine connoisseurs, foodies, music lover, hikers, really travelers of all kind. If you’d like to dine at the most outstanding restaurants in the world, renting a car is a must in Basque Country. There are nearly 40 Michelin star restaurants with about 16 in San Sebastian alone, lacking in pretentiousness, the people are the most humble, friendliest, and happiest I have met while traveling. Driving is relaxing, right sided, and smooth to navigate, with some of the best paved empty roads ever cruised making the perfect road trip. Flying into Bilbao 2 nights are plenty and car rentals at the airport or in Bilbao are accessible, Europcar and Hertz had some of the best deals and return locations if you do not want a car your entire trip, I suggest starting off in Bilbao to recoup from travel for 2-3 days in this artsy city before starting the road trip.
Bilbao 2-3 days:
STAYS: Bilbao is nearly a tourist free beautiful and very walkable small city nestled between mountains, along a river and homes its’ own Guggenheim by architect Frank Gehry.
Exploring : There’s plenty of other things to explore besides the Guggenheim Bilbao:
Casco Viejo old town
Mount Artxandra Funicular train to the top of Bilbao for beautiful views
Vizcaya Bridge
El globo/square
San Juan de guglaxtari, a pretty day trip with a hike 40 minutes outside of town by bus, car, or cab you may recognize from Game of Thrones
FOOD: Pinxtos and more, boasting 13 michelin star restaurants and other delicious eateries Basques take pride in their culture and food deeply.
Bistro Guggenheim Bilbao
Irrintzi – pintxos
Cafe Bar Bilbao – pinxtos
El Globo – pinxtos
Cafe Iruna – lamb skewers
Mercado de la Ribera – food market based to 19th century
La Vina del Ensanche – Jamon Joselito
Casa Rufo -steak
Zortziko – Michelin restaurant
San Sebastian- Donostia 5 days:
The journey from Bilbao to San Sebastian takes approximately 75 minutes , on the way you will want to make a well advanced reservation at Asador Etxebarri nestled in the mountains by surrounding farms, for a 2-3 hour lunch, well worth the stop. Chef Victor Arguinzoniz is a grilling genius with direct flame beautifully caramelized steaks, oysters on a bed of seaweed, and prawns from Palamos, sticks to the most pure , humble, and pristine culinary experience, so good you will want to cry. Beyond special and worth every penny.
STAYS SAN SEBASTIAN: you will likely want to stay in San Sebastian for at least 4-5 days if you love food as much as I do, I stayed 6 and never ran out of things to do or food to explore. Just so happened to plan my trip during the Jazzaldia which is a week long Jazz and blues festival in the end of July, there are many concerts for low cost throughout the city, Zurriola beach and the Kursaal terraces put on free concerts, seeing Jimmy Cliff on the beach in the rain for free was pure magic.
Hotel SANSEbayhttps://sansebayhotel.com/ right in the heart of old town, with excellent service and stellar location close proximity to both main beaches and bikes on premise, while still affordable.
Mount Igeldo, hike or Funicular ride for beautiful views, with a quirky amusement park at the top
Relaxing at beautiful La Concha beach
Biking the city
Exploring Old Town
Cider houses Sideria intxaurrondo and iparragirre sagardotegia
Festivals: Jazzaldia (late July) and Semana Grande (mid august)
Hike part of infamous pilgrimage route Camino de Santiago from San Sebastian to Pasaia. From downtown SS, begin behind the Playa de Zurriola, the main surf beach. The trail is accessed after a steep flight of steps that begins at the end of Zemoriya Kalea behind the Casa de Okendo. Climb towards Monte Ulia with the beaches to the left, there will be frequent signs that point the way to Pasaia, which is about 2.5 hours away (roughly 7km). Once in Pasaia, there are Eo9 buses back to San Sebsatian city center running every 30 minutes
FOOD SAN SEBASTIAN there’s a reason this vivacious city is on every foodie’s and chef’s bucket list. Second to Kyoto, Japan it homes the most amount of Michelin star restaurants per square kilometer, with unlimited amazing pinxtos bars and in my opinion it’s a place where Basque heart and soul meets culinary dreams.
Bar Haizea – for Baccalao fried cod lives up to the hype from Anthony Bourdain.Address: Aldamar Kalea, 8, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
La Cuchara de San Telemo- personal favorite; tomate y jamon, foie gras, and veal cheek; very busy but it adds to the character. Address: Santa Korda Kalea, 4, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Kapado Kia Bar
Bare Bare – seafood
Gandarias – pinxtos
Bar Azkena in the Mercado- breakfast pinxtos
Bar Txapetxa – where chefs eat pinxtos and small plates
Bar Zabaleta – breakfast or any time for Tortilla de Patata and pinxtos
La Vina – bustling bar for the best flamed basque cheesecake (this is not your NYC dense style so enjoy with an open mind) Address: 31 de Agosto Kalea, 3, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Arzak (3 Michelin star) – new basque cuisine was created here in this very special place, Juan Mari personally came around to each table and asked so genuinely “how do you like it?”, the enthusiasm and passion are felt in every bite and visually displayed on every plate.
Rioja Wine Country 3 days
Driving through the pristine empty roads of Rioja is every car enthusiasts or road trippers dream, taking just under 2 hours to complete if staying near Laguardia. The mountains and endless, often family owned, 500 small wineries are an incredibly special way to experience the slower authentically preserved Basque pace of life. Exploring walled cities, new tasty libations, and hiking Ebro Valley, bordered with different mountain ranges – Sierra de Cantabria in the north, Sierra de la Demanda in the south, then the mountains of the Basque Country and Navarre. Stayed in
A night at the above Bodegas Marques de Riscal makes for a very special experience. Hotel, Spa, and Winery in one created by the famous architect Frank Gehry; just 2 hours from San Sebastian, the food and views were incredible as well as the relaxing spa experience, and bikes on premise to cruise the wine fields and hills of Rioja. It also homes one of the best wineries in the area La Rioja Alta. https://www.marquesderiscal.com/en/marques-de-riscal-hotel
Also adventure to Laguardia, Spain a beautiful and charming walled medieval city, there’s a wonderful hotel 10 minutes away, Hotel Viura. https://www.hotelviura.com/en/
There are little ‘Asador’ restaurants, meaning ‘grill’ or ‘spit’ which Basque is known for tucked in throughout Rioja towns and dirt roads, stumbled on one at the top of a mountain, unmarked on google, that looked like someone’s home and very well could have been.
Exploring all the wineries in the Haro area, has many solid choices, such as personal favorite Bodegas Gomez Cruzado and López de Heredia Viña Tondonia
Ending the trip heading back to Bilboa Airport the main international airport in the area is about 75 minutes from Haro, Spain.
Traveling to Basque you’ll leave with a full belly and a happy heart, as any where you wind up eating in the Spanish Basque country due to such naturally fertile land and produce, along with the most incredibly hospitable salt of the earth people who cherish it.